Umit Benan grew up in Istanbul. He keeps vivid memories of his childhood years spent in the city: the busy streetlife scenes, loud sounds of preyer, smells and noises he experienced every day, for almost ten years. On his way back home from school, Umit always asked his father to drive across Istanbul on the Bosphorus side, close to the sea. Face pressed against the passenger window, he enjoyed the captivating show of a magnificent landscape, with the seagulls, the boats, the colorfully dressed fishermen in their utterly personal mixes of technical pieces, tailored garments and various americana, so different from all other middle-eastern men. With his new collection, entitled Bosphorus, Umit Benan brings all these elements together and pays tribute to his very own Istanbul, which he calls the city of contrasts. Ever the advocate for a spontaneous yet refined take on elegance and an herald for bold, unabashed masculinity, he brings the fishermen of Istanbul, their ease with color and playfulness with cross-cultural mixes, onto the catwalk, adding a new chapter to a depiction of male bravery and progressive classicism.
The collection is raw and energetic, with a sense of adventure and ease. The functional and the tailored mix and mingle: pockets multiply on trousers, patches on bombers and blazers add resistance. The silhouette is neat, with a stress on textures, which are always dense and alive. There is a certain sturdiness in the choice of robust materials such as technical rainproof cotton, heavy knit, fustian, corduroy, herringbone wool. Long coats have contrast collars, blazers sport ribbed details. Knitwear is a central element in this wardrobe: ribbed hanleys, thick jumpers, belted cardigans are meant to be layered under one button blazers and macs. Fishermen coats with teddy fur linings and snap buttons, reversible quilted vests and compact, colorful overalls are building blocks of a look that strives on the power of pragmatic yet surprising associations. Patchwork is used as a construction tool and an amusing touch: overalls are made of mixes of wools and patterns, and so are shirts and jumpers. Fishermen hats, practical bags and waterproof boots complete the look.
The color palette is surprising and assertive: tones of electric blue and strong yellow are mixed with notes of rust, green, mud.
By playing with color in a distinctly masculine way, Umit Benan suggests a peaceful encounter of opposite sensibilities and an idea of elegance that's all about instinct and inner strength.
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